I arrived in Beijing as the China Correspondent for The Straits Times in August 2005, expecting to see bicycles crowding the roads, thanks to sepia- toned images of China that were probably two decades behind time etched in my mind.

I could not have been more mistaken. Beijing dazzled me, as it will most first-time visitors from Singapore, with its scale and modernity. Everything here is up-sized - massive fortress-like buildings, towering sky-scrapers and wide, six-lane avenues.

Walking around, you get a distinct feeling of a city that is in a hurry to catch up with other established world capitals, and that it is making up for lost time.

Spurred chiefly by the Beijing Summer Olympics, the city's transformation is helping it catch up with the more glamorous, cosmopolitan Shanghai in the south. New high-end Western restaurants open every month, and party-goers can bar-hop for weeks and still not run out of watering holes.

The downside of this development is that Beijing's cultural and historical content is fast disappearing. Many of the city's beautiful traditional courtyard houses, as well as old neighbourhoods, have been bulldozed to make way for the next mall or residential complex.

For a journalist, the stories behind Beijing's transformation make it a fascinating place to work and live in. For travellers who have just 48 hours to spend here, take your pick from the suggestions below. But here's a tip: Stay longer and you won't regret it.

ABOUT BEIJING

The thing to realise and accept about Beijing is that it is very big, very crowded and, climate-wise, pretty extreme (sandstorms from March to May, bone-chilling wind and hailstones in winter, and dry, scorching heat during summer).

The city has 17 million residents and is growing by the year. So be prepared to jostle, be stuck in traffic jams and occasionally have your taxi stolen from under your nose.

The best time to visit is spring (April to May) and autumn (September to October) when the skies are so blue and the air so clear that you can see the mountains surrounding the city in the distance.

Bring lots of cash. While more and more places in the city accept credit cards now, it is safer to deal in cash.

A British friend visiting me used his credit card in a restaurant and later found that someone had figured out a way to charge 4,000 (S$10,700) to it. Also, many of the smaller shops prefer cash and might offer you a bigger discount if you use the local currency.

WHERE TO STAY

Most of the big-name hotels are here but if you prefer staying somewhere with more character, you can try these places instead:

Commune by the Great Wall: Features a collection of unique, eclectically designed houses specially created by 12 Asian architects, and set against a backdrop of gentle hills near a section of the Great Wall outside Beijing. You can choose which house you want to stay in, go for a massage at the on-site spa and dine on Chinese cuisine while enjoying the view of Beijing's countryside. (Exit at Shuiguan, Badaling Highway, Beijing, Tel: 86-10-8118-1888, reservations. thegreatwall@kempinski.com, http://www.communebythegreatwall.com/en/)

The Red Capital Club: You can choose to stay at its downtown accommodation or at the out-of-town location. The city residence offers five rooms in a restored courtyard home in one of Beijing's "heritage" districts. Or, if you're willing to go the distance, try Red Capital Club's Tibetan-style ranch near the Great Wall. It is marketed as Beijing's "first and only eco-tourism resort set on a private estate spread over 50 Chinese acres offering vista views of the Great Wall". (No. 66 Dongsi Jiutiao Dongcheng District Beijing, Tel: 86-10-8401-6152, http://www.redcapitalclub.com.cn)

WHERE TO EAT

Whampoa Club: Helmed by Singaporean chef Jereme Leung, this restaurant doesn't serve the delicious Shanghainese fare that you find at the first Whampoa Club in Shanghai. Instead, you'll get high quality - and high priced - northern Chinese food with a slight fusion twist. Arguably one of the most beautiful restaurants in Beijing, it is set in a stunning, redecorated siheyuan, or courtyard house, along Beijing's Financial Street. (23A Jinrong Dajie, Xicheng District, Tel: 86-10-8808-8828)

Da Dong Roast Duck: When in Beijing, you must eat roast duck. There are loads of roast duck restaurants in town but this is my favourite. Da Dong serves a lean, mean roast duck, with perfectly crisped skin. The accompanying wraps are smooth, soft and have a great chewy texture.

It also offers expensive abalone and sea cucumber dishes, as well as more affordable homestyle standards. Friends love the deep-fried oysters in batter. There are now two branches to choose from. (Building 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongsanhuan Lu, Southeast corner of Changhong Bridge, Chaoyang District, Tel: 86-10-6582-2892/ 4003 and 1-2/F Nanxincang International Plaza, 22A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District, Tel: 86-10-5169-0329)

Yuxiang renjia: Decent, reasonable Sichuan fare popular with the locals with several branches across the city serving up tongue-numbing favourites from China's south-western province. (Stall 1011, Building 4, Jianwai Soho, 39, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District, Tel: 86-10-586- 0653; 20 Chaoyang Dajie, 5/F Lianhe Dasha, Chaoyang District, Tel: 86-10-6588-3841; 6/F Parkson Shopping Centre, Fuxingmen, Xicheng District, Tel: 86-10-6602 3706)

WHAT TO SEE

While the Great Wall of China will always be a draw, sights such as a table-tennis game in a park and vegetable stalls could soon diminish.

Every visitor knows a trip to Beijing isn't complete without heading to the Great Wall or spending an afternoon wandering around the Forbidden City. Here are some suggestions to make the most of popular tourist spots and other alternatives.

The Great Wall: Stunning views (even better in winter when covered in snow), fresh air and a good aerobic workout. Hire a car or taxi for the day and head out to the sections of the wall such as Mutianyu or Simatai, which attract fewer tourists than Badaling, the section closest to Beijing. The more adventurous and fit might even try hiking along the wall for several hours.

The National Centre for Performing Arts: Singapore has its "durian", Beijing has its "egg"'. This newly completed concert theatre lies just west of the Great Hall of the People and has attracted big name orchestras and performers including Spanish tenor Jose Carreras. (2 Chang'an Jie, Xicheng District, Tel: 86-10-6655-0000, www. chncpa.org)

Dashanzi Art District: An old industrial district of factories converted into a warren of art galleries. Don't miss the Ullens Centre for Contemporary Art, which is Beijing's most professional gallery. There is also a great little bookshop specialising in art and photography books. (Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm, Dashanzi Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District, Tel: 86-10- 6438-6576)

WHERE TO SHOP

I'm going to start with where NOT to shop in Beijing - the big expensive malls carrying international high-end luxury brands. Even though most of the goods are made in China, they retail at prices 30 to 50 per cent higher than what you would pay at home because of the heavy import and luxury goods taxes.

So when in Beijing, head to the clothing markets and little clothing boutiques.

Sanlitun: Along this famous bar stretch in eastern Beijing, there are interesting spots to pick up a bargain or two. Head to 3.3 Shopping Mall for trendy clothing, shoes and bags. Also try the nearby Nali Mall, a small collection of shops selling factory overruns of brand-name clothing. Remember to bargain. (Sanlitun North Bar Street, 3.3 Shopping Centre is at 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District, Tel: 86-10-6417-8886, 11am to 11pm daily, www.3d3.cn)

Ritan Office Building: Ladies, you can pick up an entire outfit here. Previously an office building but now just room after room of clothing shops selling factory overruns of famous brands and more. Bargain hard. (5A Guanghua Road, Chaoyang District, Tel: 86-10-6502-1528, 10am to 6pm daily)

Yaxiu Clothing Market: A little more trendy than the famous Silk Market, Yaxiu is a great place to pick up anything from jeans to luggage at bargain prices. The tailors on the top floor are popular with resident expatriates for custom-made suits and qipaos. But remember, haggle like your life depends on it. (West of Sanlitun Jiuba Jie, 58 Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District, Tel: 86-10-6415-1726, 9am to 8pm daily)

HOW TO GET AROUND

Taxis are cheap and plentiful in Beijing. The trick to not getting lost is to always have the phone number of the place you're headed to. If the cab driver is not familiar with your destination, call the place and ask someone there to give the driver directions.

The subway is cheap - 2 yuan (40 Singapore cents) a ride to anywhere - and fast but crowded at peak hours.

HOW TO GET THERE

China and Singapore Airlines fly almost every day direct to Beijing.

SAFETY

I feel as safe in Beijing as I do in Singapore. But there have been reports of "tea scams"' and "Chinese painting" scams, where "friendly" locals will offer to take you to a tea house for some tea, or take you to an "art gallery" and then con you out of insane amounts of money. Don't fall for it.

BEST KEPT SECRETS

The Beijing Botanic Gardens in spring: If you pick the right time (this month is perfect), you'll see fields of tulips, rows of roses and magnificent magnolia trees in full bloom. Another interesting sight while exploring the grounds stretched over 56 ha - local Chinese striking poses (think dramatic and 1930s Chinese movie star moves) with the flowers. (Wo Fo Si Road, Xiangshan, Tel: 86-10-6259283, 6am to 7pm daily)

Nanshan Ski Village during winter: South of Beijing in Miyun county, about 11/2 hours by car from the city centre, this is a great place for a beginner or an expert.

The resort has at least three ski slopes covered in soft man-made snow of varying steepness. (Shengshuitou Village, Henanzhai Town, Miyun County, Tel: 86-10-8909-1909, www.nanshanski.com, 8.30am to 5.30pm daily)

Foot massage: Okay, so it is not quite a secret that you can get really cheap and good foot massages in Beijing, but at the Oriental Taipan outlets, your foot or body massage comes with free tea, fruit juice and food (pork burgers, dumplings, noodles and curry rice). Not to mention a large screen TV in your private room. (www.taipan.com.cn, Tel: 86-10-8532- 2177)

tracyq@sph.com.sg

This article was first published in The Sunday Times on April 13, 2008.